Early Season Ice Climbing
Since our week long trip to Canmore last Winter, Ice Climbing has become a passion of ours. This past season has seen us put a lot more effort into Climbing in general. Climbing is not just a full body sport, it’s a full everything sport. It’s physical, mental and emotional. It’s the perfect activity in my opinion. I can understand why people give up everything to live in a van and climb full time as a dirtbag. Climbing gives you almost everything you need to feel a sense of living fully. Ice Climbing, however, tends to not have a huge following. Even within the climbing community only a small subset of climbers will learn to climb ice and stick with it. For most it appears to be a novelty activity to do once, take some photos of and then never do again. Not for myself. Something about the aesthetics of it appeals to me. Swinging sharpened Ice tools and kicking serrated barbs of steel into walls of frozen water. Seeing layers of ice shatter and explode or feeling the ice tool make a satisfying “thunk” as it bites solidly from a perfect flick of the wrist. All ice is not made equal either. Time, weather and location can have a dramatic effect on the properties of the ice you will be climbing. The type of ice you climb in the morning can be completely different to the type of ice you climb that same evening. To rock jocks that have never been on ice I try to use this analogy, “Imagine going to your favorite granite rock climbing area only to discover when you get there that the rock has now changed to limestone with bands of gneiss running through it, and instead of a 5.10b crack you now have a 5.11a face climb. It’s that kind of flux that you have to be prepared for with ice” Or put simply by a friend of mine as we geared up at the base of a climb: “Ice Climbing is just badass, that’s it, everyone knows it” What follows are some accounts of the Ice Climbing trips I’ve been on in the past few months and what I’ve learned from those experiences. Mount Baker Seracs: Spring wrote about our experience at Mount Baker here: “Mount Baker: Ice Climbing“, so I won’t labor the details. I was really psyched to get out on glacier ice. From all my glacier experience the number one rule has always been to avoid going anywhere near crevasses but on this trip our goal was not only to find the deepest, darkest cracks in the glacier...
10 Trail Running Lessons
Here are a few trail running lessons that I have learned over the past year. I thought I would pass them along to see if you can relate to any of them! Don’t eat eggs before you run. They will make you feel heavy and make you even gassier than running normally makes you! This can be a huge problem if you are ahead of your running partner; you may actually lose a partner on this one. Keep your kit tidy! Meaning don’t have earphone wires hanging down so they can swing aimlessly while you gallop along. Tuck those stray wires in your sports bar or in your shorts waist band. You will tire quickly of having to adjust laces, wires, straps…everything needs to be in it’s right place or else 2 to 3 hours down the trail you are going to have a meltdown. I have so I know. Take the right music. Music that sounds great at the beginning of the run can become very annoying hours in. How do you know you have the right music? For shorter tempo runs I always like a few sick beats to get dropped and for longer runs I like something a bit more emotive, nothing that will make me cry mid-run, but soothing enough that it helps me keep on pace. Fight the urge to sit or lie down when you see a soft mossy patch along the trail. you won’t get back up. Always bring toilet paper. Let’s not beat around the bush, because you are eventually going to have to poop in one, so be prepared! There will be slow days and there will be fast days. There will be days that you love it and days that you swear you will never run again. It’s all a part of the process…embrace it! Learn to love walking. That’s right, I have let the cat out of the bag, the key to running for a really long time is learning when to walk and when to keep running. There is no shame in walking a chin scraper of a hill, it’s probably more efficient and energy-saving in the long run; unless you are kind of a big deal like some of the pro’s out there. I am not therefore I am not ashamed to walk every now and then! Running solo is a beautiful thing! Don’t be afraid to head out on the trails by yourself, even for the long runs. Running in a group is a beautiful thing! Learn to run with a group, especially people who are faster than you. You won’t believe how motivating it can...
Ch-Ch-Ch-Chia Pudding
If you’re anything like me the first time you heard about Chia it brought you back to being a kid growing up in the 80’s watching this commercial. And let’s all be honest with ourselves, we all really wanted a Chia pet, I mean I still kind of want one…hmm I wonder if they still sell them? Buy one! Chia Pet Kitten I have since found that Chia is much more than a super cool indoor gardening toy. And more specifically, Chia seeds, are a powerhouse of nutrition. Everyone can add these into their daily eating routine and they are chock full of health benefits . I started adding them to my morning oatmeal concoction (which is: oatmeal, almond milk, sunflower seeds, Goji berries, Chia seeds, hemp seeds) but after reading the book “Born to Run” (a definite must read for any aspiring runner or any experienced runners who need a kick in the pants motivation wise ) I thought about other ways I could incorporate them into my diet. I had heard about Chia pudding before but never got around to trying it… until now. Oh my god I can’t believe I have been missing out on it all this time!! It is so delicious and just absolutely decadent that it won’t seem like you are eating something so good for you. So here is the recipe that I currently use: 1 400ml Can Organic Coconut Milk (Full Fat) 4 Tbsp Organic Chia Seeds (Use less if you want a thinner pudding) 1 splash of pure vanilla extract 1 dash of cinnamon (I love cinnamon so don’t give specific measurements. Use to taste) That’s it! Put all those ingredients in a resealable glass container, give it a quick stir and put it in the fridge for a few hours. The Chia seeds soak up so much of the coconut milk that you are left with a thick tapioca like pudding. You only need to eat a small amount at a time as it is so rich, unless you are like me and eat almost half of it in one sitting! Scoop 2-3 tbsp into a bowl, add your favorite frozen or fresh berry and sprinkle with raw cacao nibs. Amazing! Now I am not much of a sweet tooth and prefer to make it unsweetened, but if you wanted to sweeten it up you could add a touch of agave syrup, or even maple syrup would do the trick! Do you eat Chia Pudding? We would love to hear your favorite way of eating this delicious snack! If you haven’t tried it before make sure to let us know what you...
Greenergy Juice
Ok so it can be hard to find a tasty vegetable juice. I have made a few where you have to prepare yourself for each gulp you take; yes a gulp because it’s the kind of juice that you want to get down as quickly as possible and sipping would take too long. You know the kind right? I am sure you have had a few where you may have even pinched your nose to dull the flavour as you took your gulp. Well this juice is not like that! It’s definitely one of the top juice recipes I have found and we try to drink one at least 3-5 times a week each morning before breakfast. The cucumber adds a refreshing taste, while the celery gives hints of a savory flavour and combined with the slight sweetness of the apple, tang of the lime and creamy bitterness of kale/spinach you have a pretty delicious & very nutritious juice! Oh and you won’t believe how energetic you will feel throughout the day from drinking this juice. Recipe: 1/2 cucumber 2 large handfuls of kale or spinach (you can use both) 2 stalks of celery 1 apple squeeze of half of a lime Serves 2 (230 ml per serving) When juicing remember to always use organic! Enjoy! ...
Tantalust, Part V: Epilogue
< Tantalust, Part IV: Risking Adventure The roar of the propeller blades and engine was deafening. As we lifted suddenly off the ground the Haberl Hut, where we’d lived for 3 nights, became a speck on top of a rocky ridge below us. “Want to check out the Rumbling Glacier?” We’d met this Helicopter pilot before. He had flown Ron and his friends up to the Cabin to do maintenance on it. While he waited for them to finish we talked to him about our plans. We had mentioned the heavily crevassed “Rumbling Glacier” on the East side of Mount Tantalus and how we had hoped to see it up close. Even from afar the huge, jagged seracs and crevasses that make up most of its mass can be made out. Now that we were flying out, he remembered our wish and offered over the intercom to take us on a close flyby of the glacier. This was a surprise to us as we had only booked a flight directly down to the Tantalus Hut, but we both instantly nodded “Yes” and gave him a thumbs up. To see this immense, fractured glacier up close, as we hovered above it, was amazing. I’ll likely never set foot there and this glacier will likely disappear in the next few decades so I felt privileged for the experience. After a few moments we were whisked back to Lake Lovely Water and after a brief detour around the lake we got dropped off on a rocky bluff near the Tantalus Hut. As the Chopper took off again and left us behind I understood the energy and stoke those climbers had exuded when they were dropped off up at the Haberl Hut. That short flight in the Helicopter had felt like a shot of adrenalin right in to my chest. We grabbed our heavy packs and began to make our way towards the Tantalus Hut. We’d packed our last day pretty full. After effectively resting at the Haberl Hut for the past 2 days we felt itchy to get moving again. The plan was to dump our unnecessary equipment in a storage container in the Hut, then hike up and scramble to the summits of 3 peaks nearby; Iota, Pelops and Niobe. After that we’d hike back down, retrieve our stashed gear, hike down to the Squamish River and then float our Canoe downstream for several kilometers and take out near the “Watershed Grill”, a restaurant that sits above the banks on a wide bend in the river, where we’d meet our friend who was going to pick us up. Back at the Hut...
